Paddles and straps
Whips
Other devices
Cuffs
Other Restraints
Gags
Hoods
Mittens
So you've made through all that basic stuff. You did read it, didn't you? Now that you have read all that, you need the stuff to make it happen. Items to use (toys) vary a lot. You can spend very little money or you can spend literally tens of thousands or dollars. Remember when you see people who have those fabulous toy collections that they have taken years or decades to put them together. For this talk we will assume that you aren't quite ready to take out a second mortgage on your home.
Basic Toys
Remember the hair brush? Getting started with basic implements doesn't have to cost much, in fact, you probably have BDSM items in your home right now. Rope (more on rope in later) cloths pins, wooden (or good plastic) spoons, rubber bands, ace bandages, plastic wrap, duct tape, stiff brushes, scarves, neck ties, old hose, feathers (everybody have feathers lying around don't they?), chop sticks, old leather or vinyl belts, elastic tie downs, you get the idea. It isn't too hard to make paddles or straps and the like either. Scene people love hardware stores because they are full of things can be used in ways the manufacturer didn't intend. Things like snap links and chain have obvious uses but there are many things that are "pervertable" if you use your imagination. But don't forget safety. Most of the hardware at a typical hardware store isn't rated for strength. Snap links are usually rated in the 90 to 250 pound static (dead load) range. This isn't nearly strong enough for suspension scenes and other high end applications but is strong enough for lighter duty uses. Most hardware strong enough for heavy duty applications will have a static rating stamped on it and typically cost a lot more then the light duty counterparts. If it was your choice would you rather hang from a $2.95 hardware store snap link of indeterminate origin and strength or a snap link rated at 18000 pounds static load? Enough said.
Wooden spoons and hairbrushes and certain plastic ones should be inspected and lightly sanded to remove splinters (there are places on your body where you don't want splinters) as should the jaws to wooden clothes pins. It also helps to apply a coat of poly-urethane to keep splinters from happening. Inspect things regularly to make sure every things OK. If you do find a problem like a crack, throw the thing away. No toy, regardless of cost, is worth more then your partner.
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Purpose Built Toys
Restraints
Rope: There are many types of rope and while most have their use's, for the beginner probably the best is solid braided nylon or cotton, if you can find it. These are strong (Do NOT attempt rope suspension, or any other form of suspension, until you've watched others who are experienced, learned from and/or assisted them and practiced under some form of supervision) and don't abrade the skin like other synthetics. They also will hold knots well and can be easily washed (yes, you should wash your rope, would you put on under-wear before you washed it or wear it again after you used it?). Keep your rope coiled so you can easily use it. It also helps to cut your ropes to specific lengths and mark those so you can quickly produce a 3 or 6 foot length or any length you want. Look in our book section for more on rope and rope bondage. Find out more about knots at Ropers Knot Page
Cuffs: While you can make your own cuffs most people buy them. Typical cuff materials are leather, rubber, and nylon/cotton blends. Cuffs can be unlined (skin touches cuff material) or lined (skin is isolated from cuff material by some form of padding). Most people prefer lined cuffs as they don't chafe as much and can be worn for an extended period. When you buy cuffs you should try to find ones you like, but you
also want to look them over. If they are lined what is the material, you might be allergic to it. Do they fit (if a vendor objects to you trying them on, find another vendor) which means more then will they go around your wrist or ankle. Buckle them, make sure that they are tight enough that your hand won't slip out but don't cut off circulation. Try several pair for this, cuffs are hand made and the buckle holes are hand punched, so they do vary. Make sure that you buy cuffs for what you intend. The cuffs that look pretty on your partners hands might not be adequate for much else. The vendor should be able to tell you what cuffs are for what.
Other Restraints: There are some pretty devious devices out there for restraint. Arm binders, harnesses, body bags and many more beyond the scope of this article. You can see a lot of those by visiting sites on our vendor pages. Just remember to learn to use them. Study their use in vendor pictures, so you know how they are supposed to be used. When you get them make sure they are complete and that all hardware is secure and works properly. No matter how anxious you are to see it on your partner go slowly the first time (which is good advice for everything we are talking about).
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Sensory Modification Devices
Blindfolds: Blindfolds have the ability to create mystery, heighten sensation, and create a sense of anticipation. They also can create fear, panic, and hysteria. Some people can be claustrophobic and not know it until a blindfold is used. For some it is a trust issue (remember; Communicate). Some just need to see what is happening. Like everything else, blindfolds are a negotiation topic. If you and your partner are new to BDSM you should probably use something like a scarf over the eyes before buying that leather blindfold. When you are ready to buy, the process is pretty straight forward. Some things to consider are that most people find pressure on the eyes very uncomfortable, try to find a blindfold that is contoured to keep pressure off the eyes. (One "pervertable" alternative is welding goggles with the lenses painted black)
Gags: If you are playing for the first time, even if you've been together for years prior to play, gags are not a good idea. Getting to know one another, in the scene sense, is very important. Verbal communication is the best way to get a point across. Let gags come into play later on. When they do, the same issues as blindfolds come into play. Gags should be well built and purchased with the user in mind. If they need to breathe through their mouth there are "breather" gags
available. Gags are something the new person needs to work into, the larger or tighter they are, the more endurance they require. Speciality gags like cock gags shouldn't go to far into the mouth (and yes, they do come in lengths) as they could cause choking. Some, like blow up gags, require special care as they can cut off airways. Since you can't try before you buy you should accept the fact that if you buy several gags, you will probably buy at least one that just doesn't work for you. Toys that don't work have happened to every scene person so relax. Finally, gags should be used in half hour increments and then removed. Don't leave your sub alone when they are gagged (or any other time for that matter). Some people have trouble swallowing when gagged so be alert for choking.
Hoods: A BDSM icon, hoods have the ability to arouse feelings of submission and eroticism very quickly in the wearer. They can also quickly arouse panic and claustrophobia. Even people who are comfortable with blindfolds and gags and relatively experienced can freak out with a hood, so extreme caution is advised. A the low end, hoods range in the $100 to $200 dollar range. At the custom fit end they can arouse panic in the person with the credit card. Hoods aren't really for beginners but questions are so frequently asked about them we included them.
Mittens: Mittens are a form of cuff that encloses the entire hand. They can really increase the sense of helplessness in sub, even their fingers are in bondage. The same cautions that apply to regular cuffs apply to mittens.
There are many other ways to modify or control the senses, most of which are beyond beginner. Controlling the senses of a sub also means cutting off communication. Be sure to establish a means for a safe word/signal. Don't take things to extreme levels until you have some experience and know your partner.
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Sensation Devices
When you buy or make one of these, try it on yourself first. No, you may not be into that but you should have some understanding of the sensation you are causing in your sub. You will quickly realize things like doing your Babe Ruth imitation with a paddle or whip is NOT the best approach.
Clamps: Clamps range from clothes pins (wood or plastic) to purpose built devious types. You should start with wooden clothes pins. They don't grip as tightly as plastic and can be further modified by taking them apart and stretching the springs. The jaws should be lightly sanded (remember splinters) but not finished with poly-urethane as the plain
wood is less likely to slip. Beyond the clothes pin, clamps work pretty much the same. The biggest difference is their gripping ability which can be considerable. You can't try them at the vendor but most will be rated terms like light to heavy or something like endurance. The vendor should also be able to tell you about the grip strength. Bear in mind that the ability of a sub to accept a clamp depends on how deep they are into a scene and other physiological factors. The clamp that was nothing yesterday can be excruciating today. From a safety standpoint clamps shouldn't be left in place more then half an hour. Nipple clamps should be applied with plenty of nipple between them (not just the very tip)
Paddles and straps: Paddles can vary a lot. The material, weight and thickness of that material, and personal technique influence how a paddle feels. When choosing, or making, a paddle the denser the material the bigger the wallop. Size and weight are also factors to a point (the bigger the paddle the harder it is to get it moving) Non wood materials can be leather, rubber, lexan, synthetics or even light metal. Although a paddle can be used almost anywhere you can use a
whip, remember that a paddle isn't flexible and that it's impact energy is very efficiently transferred to the target area. In other words a frat paddle that was wonderful on the butt, used on the shoulders, is a club. Used on the behind aim for the sweet spot (see techniques). You also want to take care that you are hitting only with the flat of a paddle and not the edge. Hitting with the edge can do nasty things, like break bones. If a paddle is to big our heavy for a Dom/Domina, the tendency will be to try the big, full arm swing and will increase the likelihood of edging. You can generally try out a paddle before you buy it so make sure you are comfortable with the heft of the thing, before you try it on your sub. The rules for straps are the same as for paddles with the caveat that straps are flexible the can wrap in addition to edge. Wrapping is when the end of a strap or whip extends beyond the target and "wraps" around the body. The tip will be moving a lot faster then you expect and can do real damage as well as cause a tremendous amount of pain, far beyond what you intend. Finally, if a wooden paddle cracks or breaks or starts splintering, DON'T glue it, tape it or try to fix it. THROW IT AWAY!!!! If you must, mount it on a plaque, put it on your wall and brag about how you broke it "yea bob, let me tell you about that scene" but NEVER use it again.
Whips: Whips come in several "flavors". You will hear about "cats", whips and floggers. The difference comes down to design and number of falls (the tails of the whip). Classical cats (cat-o-nine) have nine falls that are often braided and end in a plain or knotted tip. Whips can also have nine or a few more falls but are flat (non-braided) and usually end in a squared off or angled end. Floggers have a bunch of falls (20+) usually flat with squared ends. As with most things, none of this is absolute. There are six fall cats and fifteen fall floggers. Probably the best advice is if you like it, you both like the bite, then buy it and don't worry about what its called. The material that a whip (the generic term) is made of also
determines how it feels. Materials can be leather (everything from swede to bison), rubber, sisal, synthetics, and brine soaked rope (eh? Cap'in Blye). Obviously the material affects how the final product feels. When buying a whip, avoid the "marital aids" section of your local adult book store. Even if they have well made whips they are usually overpriced. Remember the old saying, "you get what you pay for". If you paid $29.95 don't be surprised when the falls fall everywhere except where you want them to or come loose from the handle and go flying across the room, to be free and breed more cheap whips. A good hand made leather whip is not cheap but wil
l last and last. The knot and leather winding on the handle should be clean and tight. If the tails are not to long, twirl the whip in a flat figure 8 and see if the falls stay together (they shouldn't go all over the place). If you have some experience try a few practice hits at your subs back and on your own thigh or forearm. A nice feature is when a whip balances (see image at left). That way it does a lot of the work for you when you are using it. Not all whips will balance, as in the case of heavy floggers, but the more off balance and heavy it is, the more work it will take on the tops part. Finally, expect to pay from $60.00 to the middle hundreds for a whip. They aren't cheap.
Other Devices: There is no end to what scene people can use for sensation play. Some of the things were discussed in Ba
sic Toys. Wartenburg Wheels, curry combs, horse brushes, dish brushes, just about that drags, scrapes, pokes or tickles will work. Use your imagination, if you what to drag a bratwurst over your sub it's up to you.. Just remember safety (no, we never stop talking about safety). If anything breaks the skin (draws blood, either accidently or intentionally) it should be cleaned with 91% alcohol if metal or plastic. If it's porous (leather, rope, natural "gum" rubber) it is now a one person toy, used only with the person whose skin that was broken.
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